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Issue #280, December 30, 2024, Ljubljana, Slovenia




Journal, December 30, 2024, Ljubljana, Slovenia



Dad died a year ago today. I have been thinking about him and his life. He and mom came to Trieste once, on an engineering-related trip, for a conference relating to his computer designs.



While he was at the conference, she explored places like Aquileia and the Grotto Gigante, so we have been retracing her steps, in a way.



Our day on the 30th was primarily one of exploration, and we let the kids set the agenda. They wanted to take the funicular tram (a railway car that climbed up steep tracks) up to the Ljubljana Castle, and spend the day exploring up there.



And so, after wandering around the center of town where we looked at the famous ‘Dragon bridge’ and bought some grapes at a fruit stand, we ascended (after a long, cold wait in the funicular line), to the hilltop fortress that has seen so much habitation over the centuries.



The Ljubljana castle was originally a medieval fortress, but over the centuries it has been rebuilt and served as a princely refuge for bohemian elites. It has also been a place of imprisonment for countless people.



The place was a bit touristy, and I found myself scowling with the crowds, but we started off with an audio tour, and explored many areas. Paige, Phoenix and I climbed the Panoramic tower, which had a beautiful double metal staircase inside and from which all of Ljubljana, plus the distant Alps, could be seen (with a layer of inversion smog hugging the skyline). We also checked out the jail, and a museum of miniatures.



To finish up, we watched a 3-D movie in a small auditorium about the history of human habitation on the site, learning how this bump of land has been used over the centuries. In one incarnation, it was even a Roman fortress.



We waited to have a meal until we had left the citadel. The rest of the family took the funicular back down to town, but I wanted to take in the scenery around the sunny side of the castle, and so got back to the bottom of the mountain by walking.



I made it down more quickly than the rest of my funicular-loving family. (Side note: the Funicular went into service one month before Orion was born)!



Crankiness ensued with the lack of a good mid-day meal, and we needed to find a place to eat, and fast. We picked the closest spot that advertised ‘authentic Slovenian cuisine’, waiting only a few moments before being shepherded to a spot upon the 2nd floor in a very crowded room.



The advantage of this restaurant was that the menu was replete with photos of all the meals, giving us a better idea of what we could enjoy. Phoenix had a pair of ribs on a wooden board. I ate sausages. The window above us was wide open, to cool the crowded room, despite it being the end of December.



Next to our table was a family with an infant being passed around. The place cleared out quickly, and soon we were the only ones left. Why? It turns out that a parade was scheduled in the streets on this very evening, which we soon discovered - quite by surprise - after walking past barriers and security guards standing nearby.



A procession unfolded similar to the parade of lights in Boulder, and soon we could hear live music. What a joyous scene! Snaking through the streets came Santa, riding in a regal coach pulled by horses, with dancers and musicians and people wearing polar bear costumes.



Young girls handed out candy to the children. We jostled for position, like everybody else, to catch a glimpse. It was so lively and lit up! We walked through the old town section, along the river and back up to the central square, all the while enjoying the festive nature of the town.



Orion takes almost as many pictures as I do now, maybe more! There was plenty to take pictures of. The castle, presiding over the town, was lit up in blue and yellow lights; river barges cruised by, draped in lights, and light sculptures in the shapes of amoebas hung over the streets.



For our final act, we hung out in the Franciscan church for a little while, and Phoenix and I had some discussions about what the Christian church was all about. He is somewhat curious.




solo/group kukai
drawing/writing/photography
jonathan machen