welcome to the haikutimes
Issue #260, October 15, 2024, Carcassone, France
Waiting in the rain for our Carcassone tour to begin
Yesterday we took a field trip to Carcassonne, a city near the highway that we had to retrace our route to get to, about 45 minutes away.
This house in Carcassone was built this way, like a mushroom, to apparently avoid taxes which were assessed based on the size of the ground floor
It’s a large castle surrounded by impressive ramparts, and, of course, a church in the center. Carcassonne is much more touristy than Minerve. It was also raining, but it had great charm, and of course, hundreds of years of history to explore!
Interior of the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus
Stained glass windows of the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus
We had another local tour guide, a feisty woman who had perfected her delivery over many years of explaining the same details, so it was amusing to watch her speak while also catching the outlines of the history of the place.
Our tour guide explaining that the wealthy citizens of the castle would walk on the side opposite the sewage, which ran down the right side
Mom enjoying Cassoulet
After the hour-long tour, we were free to get lunch on our own, so Mom and I went to a practically deserted spot where we ordered the local favorite dish, Cassoulet, a melange of white beans with a large leg of duck and some sausage. It was hearty and delicious, and since it was so early, we had the restaurant to ourselves. We were able to hear each other talk!
The eternal struggle
Reproduction of a poster inside the Château depicting the seige of Simon de Montfort
Mom and I then explored the indoor castle, which required an extra ticket, but it was fun to explore, especially the castle ramparts.
Gravestones waiting to get out
Jon's painting on the castle ramparts
I returned there to do a drawing in the remaining two hours we had. I left Mom in the bookstore and retraced my steps to one particular spot, where I spent a careful 45 minutes sketching, and another half hour painting quickly. I do like the quickness and ease with which I can add bits of color with the opaque gouache.
View of the basilica from the castle ramparts
We were back at the Château de Ducs du Joyeuse in Couiza before dinner. I went for a walk through the town, past the old church and over a narrow bridge across the river Aud, ending up on the opposite bank from the castle, which I enjoyed seeing from a different perspective. We had another elegant dinner with the cast of characters who are also on the trip.
The Château from the other side of the river
This time we sat with the trip leader, Fran, also Lee from Houston, Ray and Pam from New Hampshire. The start of our conversation had a lot to do with ‘what is polite or not’ when it comes to table manners and the different traditions around eating, but then Fran started talking about the current political situation of Spain, and how it was Eisenhower who allowed the fascists in Spain to remain in power, and how corrupt the king Don Carlos was. He also has a personal connection to all of this: his grandfather was murdered by Spain.
Another view of the Château from the other side of the river
Fran had our complete attention. His knowledge and grasp of history is amazing. It was an incredible conversation.
Phoenix, enjoying his 17th birthday, many miles away
I had a good conversation with Phoenix last night; quite late for our time; around 11:30, but just after school for him. He got the card that I wrote for him before I left. He had also received a number of birthday wishes from friends, and one of his friends’ moms made cookies for him.
Castle ramparts of Carcassone and the city beyond in a blast of sun
It’s unusual and satisfying to connect so easily over thousands of miles, but that is the modern state of communication we have now!
Fountain from the Carcassone museum
Contrast that to when I traveled to the South Pacific in the 80’s, when dial-up phone conversations and hand-written letters served as the main vehicle of communication.
Michael and Lee, increasing their compassion and understanding
It’s too bad, in my mind, that the increases in technology have not contributed to increases in compassion and understanding amongst disparate groups, in these modern times!
The entrance door of the Château before heading inside
It’s so interesting to learn of the medieval struggles of religious beliefs that resulted in lots of deaths, and then to contrast that history with the current political situation in our world today; Sudan, Gaza, Lebanon and Israel, not to mention Ukraine, top the list of intractable conflicts.
The entrance door of Château, leading outside
So much death has from these struggles, with entire families wiped out. In Gaza, the terrorists hide amongst the population, making the inevitable carnage even worse. In Ukraine, Russia terrorizes whole populations with asymmetrical aggression. Still, we can communicate instantly, with video connections. Something seems to be missing.
Stairway inside the Château
Waiting in the rain for our Carcassone tour to begin
Yesterday we took a field trip to Carcassonne, a city near the highway that we had to retrace our route to get to, about 45 minutes away.
This house in Carcassone was built this way, like a mushroom, to apparently avoid taxes which were assessed based on the size of the ground floor
It’s a large castle surrounded by impressive ramparts, and, of course, a church in the center. Carcassonne is much more touristy than Minerve. It was also raining, but it had great charm, and of course, hundreds of years of history to explore!
Interior of the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus
Stained glass windows of the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus
We had another local tour guide, a feisty woman who had perfected her delivery over many years of explaining the same details, so it was amusing to watch her speak while also catching the outlines of the history of the place.
Our tour guide explaining that the wealthy citizens of the castle would walk on the side opposite the sewage, which ran down the right side
Mom enjoying Cassoulet
After the hour-long tour, we were free to get lunch on our own, so Mom and I went to a practically deserted spot where we ordered the local favorite dish, Cassoulet, a melange of white beans with a large leg of duck and some sausage. It was hearty and delicious, and since it was so early, we had the restaurant to ourselves. We were able to hear each other talk!
The eternal struggle
Reproduction of a poster inside the Château depicting the seige of Simon de Montfort
Mom and I then explored the indoor castle, which required an extra ticket, but it was fun to explore, especially the castle ramparts.
Gravestones waiting to get out
Jon's painting on the castle ramparts
I returned there to do a drawing in the remaining two hours we had. I left Mom in the bookstore and retraced my steps to one particular spot, where I spent a careful 45 minutes sketching, and another half hour painting quickly. I do like the quickness and ease with which I can add bits of color with the opaque gouache.
View of the basilica from the castle ramparts
We were back at the Château de Ducs du Joyeuse in Couiza before dinner. I went for a walk through the town, past the old church and over a narrow bridge across the river Aud, ending up on the opposite bank from the castle, which I enjoyed seeing from a different perspective. We had another elegant dinner with the cast of characters who are also on the trip.
The Château from the other side of the river
This time we sat with the trip leader, Fran, also Lee from Houston, Ray and Pam from New Hampshire. The start of our conversation had a lot to do with ‘what is polite or not’ when it comes to table manners and the different traditions around eating, but then Fran started talking about the current political situation of Spain, and how it was Eisenhower who allowed the fascists in Spain to remain in power, and how corrupt the king Don Carlos was. He also has a personal connection to all of this: his grandfather was murdered by Spain.
Another view of the Château from the other side of the river
Fran had our complete attention. His knowledge and grasp of history is amazing. It was an incredible conversation.
Phoenix, enjoying his 17th birthday, many miles away
I had a good conversation with Phoenix last night; quite late for our time; around 11:30, but just after school for him. He got the card that I wrote for him before I left. He had also received a number of birthday wishes from friends, and one of his friends’ moms made cookies for him.
Castle ramparts of Carcassone and the city beyond in a blast of sun
It’s unusual and satisfying to connect so easily over thousands of miles, but that is the modern state of communication we have now!
Fountain from the Carcassone museum
Contrast that to when I traveled to the South Pacific in the 80’s, when dial-up phone conversations and hand-written letters served as the main vehicle of communication.
Michael and Lee, increasing their compassion and understanding
It’s too bad, in my mind, that the increases in technology have not contributed to increases in compassion and understanding amongst disparate groups, in these modern times!
The entrance door of the Château before heading inside
It’s so interesting to learn of the medieval struggles of religious beliefs that resulted in lots of deaths, and then to contrast that history with the current political situation in our world today; Sudan, Gaza, Lebanon and Israel, not to mention Ukraine, top the list of intractable conflicts.
The entrance door of Château, leading outside
So much death has from these struggles, with entire families wiped out. In Gaza, the terrorists hide amongst the population, making the inevitable carnage even worse. In Ukraine, Russia terrorizes whole populations with asymmetrical aggression. Still, we can communicate instantly, with video connections. Something seems to be missing.
Stairway inside the Château
solo/group kukai
drawing/writing/photography
jonathan machen
drawing/writing/photography
jonathan machen